The rear wings are another major element in the car's final appearance, but there's no need to be intimidated. Patrick says that fitting them is straightforward and not a long job. "Just take your time to read the manual first and make sure you really understand it before you start."

After you've decided which side you're going to start - it doesn't matter which - you disconnect the coil spring/shock absorber unit from that side and take it out. Make sure the rear wheel, with tyre, is fitted onto the hub just as it will be on the finished car and jack it up into the position that it will assume when the suspension is fully compressed. This gives you the absolute limit of the wheel's upward movement, so you can be confident of avoiding it fouling the wing.

With the wheel jacked up, Patrick offers up the wing to the car, positioning it as far forward as it will go. Then he uses a felt-tipped pen to mark around the shape of the wing. Now you can remove the jack and the wheel to leave plenty of room for the next stage, which is to decide on and mark the position of seven wing-fixing bolts. These should be distributed evenly around the edge so that the wing is held securely. Patrick uses three hex-head self-tappers on the three front fixings (two of which can be fastened directly to the chassis) and four five-sixteenths of an inch nuts, bolts and washers for the remainder.

The important thing here, says Patrick, is to make sure you use a penny washer on either side of the fibreglass to spread the load and avoid future problems. "The wings are very inviting," he said. "People sit on them."

Then it's a simple matter of drilling the fixing holes and securing the wing - not forgetting the wing piping - before repeating the exercise on the other side of the car. After this, you can fit the rear light clusters to each rear wing. The lights which come with the kit - three lights on a stainless steel panel - are easy to fit, using their back plates as templates.

The important thing is to make sure they look parallel from a distance, says Patrick. His top tip it to use a straight length of wood, five or six feet long, supported on the back of the body, parallel to the ground and the car. Then he lines the backplates up with it to get both lights parallel and at the same height. "Beware the spirit level," he says. "Don't forget that the car itself may not be level. How many of us have absolutely flat garage floors?"

Another of Patrick's top tips is to superglue the beading to the edges of the backing plates before installing them on the car. "It makes a very fiddly job into an easy one." After assembling the lights on their backing plates, Patrick installs the rear wiring harness and connects it up according to the instructions in the manual. "The important thing here", he says, "is to remember to use rubber grommets wherever the wiring passes through the body. If you leave out a grommet, then that bit of wire will chafe against the bodywork and eventually fail, which could cause a fire."